Explore Traditional Tokyo Flavors with a Tsukiji Tour and Edomae Sushi Experience in Ryogoku, Tokyo

Ryogoku: Where Edomae Sushi Was Born from Edokko’s Love of Seafood

In 1603, Tokugawa Ieyasu unified Japan and moved the capital from Kyoto to Edo (modern-day Tokyo), ushering in 260 years of peace and prosperity when symbols of modern Japan such as kabuki theater or ukiyoe art were born. It was an era when both samurai and townspeople thrived. Those commoners born in the capital called themselves “Edokko” (children of Edo), developing a unique aesthetic and way of life focused on elegance and the finer things in life.

Tokyo’s Ryogoku townscape, its tranquil atmosphere very different from the nearby Asakusa

The essence of Edo lives on in Ryogoku where it is said that Edomae sushi was first invented. Originating in a time before refrigeration or rapid transport, this style of sushi is characterized by seafood toppings that are preserved by pickling, salting, or boiling and eaten in one bite with vinegared rice. This commoner “fast food” quickly grew in popularity and became part of Japan’s seafood culture together with unagi eel, tempura, and dishes. Fish and the sea often feature in 18th-century ukiyoe paintings and woodblock prints by Katsushika Hokusai.

Fishing Boats at Choshi in Shimosa (Soshu Choshi) from the series “One Thousand Pictures of the Ocean (Chie no umi)”, Katsushika Hokusai, the Art Institute of Chicago. Image for illustrative purposes only

A Walk Through the “Kitchens” That Have Long Supported Tokyo’s Food Culture

Your experience begins with a guided walk through the Tsukiji district with a Wabunka guide. Since opening as the central wholesale market in 1935, Tsukiji Market has played a major role in shaping Japan’s food culture. While some market functions have since moved to Toyosu, the lively outer market continues to thrive. Fresh fishmongers, dried goods specialists, traditional knife shops, and long established vendors line the streets, each preserving skills passed down through generations. As you follow the aroma of broth drifting through the alleys, browse seasonal ingredients, and hear the energetic calls of the vendors, you will get a sense of the world that helped define Tokyo’s culinary identity.

Tsukiji, home to numerous historic shops

Dynamic and Innovative Culinary Creations

After exploring Tsukiji, the experience continues at Karin in Ryogoku, which opened in May 2024. “I first thought about opening my own restaurant when I was a teenager,” recalls owner Shunta Hashimoto. After graduating from culinary school, he decided to specialize in Japanese cuisine and trained at Tatsumiya in Uji, Kyoto. He then entered the world of sushi in his hometown of Miyazaki, honing his skills at the Hakata main shop of Takasho, a members-only sushi restaurant based in Fukuoka. Hashimoto also worked as head chef at an affiliated restaurant in Ginza, Tokyo, before opening Karin.

The exterior of Karin, hidden away in a quiet alley a 2-minute walk from Ryogoku Station

Hashimoto values personal connections and has worked hard to develop contacts in the industry using his pleasant demeanor and a focus on family. For example, the second kanji character in “Karin” comes from his grandfather’s name, with his father and uncle, both French chefs, being inspirations for his cooking methods. “I try to challenge myself and innovate by using ingredients like butter and wine,” he says.

Commemorative display celebrating Karin’s first tuna purchase.

Cutting Up a Tuna Fresh from the Toyosu Market Right in Front of the Participants

Tuna has been a popular sushi ingredient since the Edo Period (1603 – 1868). With Wabunka's exclusive experience, you will be able to observe the processing of a whole block of tuna in a private, rented-out restaurant. The massive block is purchased from Yunoka, a well-known Toyosu wholesaler, and will produce just one chiaigishi, a rare part obtained from alongside the tuna’s back, which contains various cuts used in sushi. “It has both the medium-fatty chutoro and the dark-red lean meat that tuna is famous for,” says Hashimoto. The standard serving includes akami and chutoro, while an optional upgrade offers a larger block that also includes the prized otoro for an elevated experience.

The chef removes the skin, bones, and the meat close to the spine to obtain various cuts of tuna
(Optional upgrade uses a larger block that includes otoro)

The Karin restaurant has 10 counter seats that give participants a front-row view of the chef’s skills. “The key is to not force the knife but to cut the fish smoothly,” explains Hashimoto. “This helps preserve the tuna’s texture and freshness.” Few people get to see the skills required to quickly carve a huge block of tuna up close. The sight of a beautifully sliced piece of fish is also sure to become a cherished memory.

From left to right: Chutoro (medium-fatty tuna), Akami (lean tuna), and Otoro (fatty tuna, available only with the optional upgrade)

Experience the Essence of Edomae Sushi During a Nigiri Hand-Pressed Sushi Course

Once the chef is done cutting the block of tuna, you will savor 10 pieces of Edomae sushi, including ones made from the tuna used in the demonstration. Other featured ingredients are flash-seared golden-eye snapper characterized by a rich, savory flavor and a pleasant sweetness to its fatty parts. Then there is the golden cuttlefish topping with its chewy texture and a lightly scored surface, another inventive and classic ingredient of Edomae sushi.

Beautiful, masterful knife work is a highlight

Be sure to also pay attention to the shari rice base for the toppings, which are known as neta. Karin uses rice from Sumidaya, a long-established Sumida Ward supplier founded over 120 years ago. To achieve the right texture and flavor, Hashimoto uses a blend of Sasanishiki and Koshihikari rice.

Karin’s attention to detail shines through even in the rice

“We use a small amount of water and cook the rice under high pressure,” explains Hashimoto. This helps the rice absorb more vinegar, giving it a tart, salty flavor that is the calling card of Edomae sushi. Karin’s rice is known for being filling and provides the perfect base for toppings carefully selected by Hashimoto at Toyosu, which he prepares with great care. Do not miss this once-in-a-lifetime opportunity to taste the essence of Edomae sushi.

Once you know how much effort goes into each piece of sushi, you will surely enjoy it more

Discover and Feel the Spirit of Edo

After leaving the lively atmosphere of Tsukiji, you will settle into the world of sushi in Ryogoku. The skillful movements of the chef before you and each bite of fresh sushi invite you to sense the traditions and culture shaped during the Edo period. You can also enjoy sake or soft drinks served in a sumo wrestler’s ceremonial cup, available upon request when ordering on the day. This adds a touch that is unique to Ryogoku, the home of sumo. Through this Wabunka experience, take in the spirit of Japan across eras and savor the atmosphere of Edo with all your senses.

Ponder history at Karin’s Yakusugi cedar counter that emanates natural warmth